Ocean surface wave

From Academic Kids

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Waves_mediterranean_sea.jpg
Waves

Ocean surface waves are waves which occur at the surface of an ocean. That is, a wave that is guided along the interface between water and air. As the wind blows, pressure and friction forces associated with the wind perturb the equilibrium of the ocean surface. The wind actually transfers some of its energy into the water. The water is able to gain energy from the wind because of the friction between the wind and the water. This causes the surface particles to move in nearly circular motion, which is a combination of longitudinal (back and forth) and transverse (up and down) wave motions. The particle motion will appear to be clockwise when viewed such that the direction of wave propagation is to the right.

As the depth into the ocean increases, the radius of the circular motion decreases. At a depth equal to the wavelength the amplitude of the motion is only a few percent of the surface amplitude. Individual "freak waves" (also "rogue waves", "monster waves" and "king waves") sometimes occur in the ocean, often as high as 30 meters. Such waves are distinct from tides, caused by the moon and sun's pull, and tsunamis that are caused by underwater earthquakes or landslides.

The movement of ocean waves can be captured by wave energy devices.

External links

es:Ola fr:vague it:onda marina pl:Falowanie ru:Гравитационные волны на водеTemplate:Ocean-stub

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